I do not apply for art beauty of translation. Also, as well as in details I can be not agree with the Moscow authors of the report.
Republic Kazakhstan, the city of Almaty.
Glacier Korzhenevskiy is located in the highest part Zailiysky Ala Tau, and is the largest glacier Northern Tien-Shan. A circus of a glacier Korzhenevskiy surround the most majestic tops of area - a file of peak Talgar, Aktau, the Metallurgist and others. There are some variants of the approach to peak Talgar from Almaty. Traditional and the most popular among climbers and mountain tourists - from a valley of the river Average Talgar through pass Severe (2А) in top a circus of glacier Korzhenevskiy. This way groups went once working climbing camp Talgar, which ruins else were saved in a valley of the river Average Talgar. However pass Severe rather it is tiresome, and it is not without reason considered reference (2A) area. Technically more simple is the way through a lower reaches of glacier Korzhenevskiy. Here it is possible to get two ways - from a valley of lake Issyk through pass Kokbulak, or from a valley of the river Chon-Kemin through pass Chiliko-Keminsky (1Б).
We have chosen a way through pass Kokbulak. Though this way also is considered most simple in the technical plan, he nevertheless contains a number{line} of complexities, among which not last place borrows{occupies} a cordon of Almaty reserve for lake Issyk. Here the huntsman so for pass is higher on constantly is on duty it is necessary for gorge to pay the certain sum. She strongly depends from social accessory{belonging} of the traveller, and only that the huntsman has benevolently considered the Moscow students, has allowed us to get off the symbolical sum in 1000 units national currencies on group.
From lake Issyk up to lake Akkol there is a track. Technical complexity on it site of a way represent only ferries - their four. It is most dangerous.The first - through the river Issyk, is lower than merge to inflow Zharsay. The track goes on to the left coast of the river, but before merge with r. Zharsay which runs in Issyk at the left, it is necessary it will be forwarded on the right coast r. Issyk. A place of a ferry varies annually, and it is better for specifying with the huntsman. We were forwarded in five hundred meters confluences river are higher Ivanov Log in river Issyk, i.e. approximately in 7 kilometers from lake Issyk. The ferry represents a log, length about{near} 4 meters. Fording is practically impossible. The staying three ferries-through the river Issyk merges with river are higher Zharsay, - actually one big ferry through widely spread channel of the river on the left coast. Here it is possible it will be forwarded without anything, but there are also logs. Above merges are places of spending the night, here and we are stopped for the night. The way from lake Issyk up to a place of spending the night has borrowed{occupied} 5,5 hours of pure time. As weather bad - a rain, went practically without halts.
Next day have risen from merge up to lake Akkol. The way goes on left to coast the river Issyk up to dried up lake - Baskol. Distance up to Baskol - near 3 kilometers. We cross wide flat bottom Baskol, there are two further variant of a way. It is possible to go on a track which begins in left (on a course) to corner of valley Baskol, or on a channel of the river Issyk. It is necessary to note, that a level waters in the river Issyk here varies rather considerably, - in first half of day waters in general can not be, and in the second it happens it will uneasy be forwarded without anything.Weather still bad - the cyclone which has covered all Almaty has not left yet Area, from Baskol we go under an incessant snowfall. The track goes streamer on stone to shaft, the maximal steepness does not exceed 20 degrees, but many stones "alive". Rise is especially difficultly given on the crosspiece closing lake Akkol of the lake on the left coast.
The moraine here is combined large (up to 2-3 meters) by boulders with sharp edges{territories}, all it is closed by 8-10 centimetric layer of sleet, the way is necessary literally to grope. 30 kg backpacks and wet stones do not allow to move quickly. Completely tired and wet we leave to summer parking hydrodens behind lake Akkol. As went under sleet, halts practically did not do. On rise from merge have spent 5,5 hours.
All equipment with the order get wet, we arrange next day day time parking. Is and one more reason - in such fog with a snowfall to go on Talgar it is impossible, so in any case it is necessary to wait for an establishment of weather. To us carries - the following day solar, a cyclone has left. The snow for a day practically melts. I estimate time for a way next day, - our average vertical - horizontal speed is stable - 3,2 (i.e. in one hour we is passable 3,2 kms or we type 320 meters on a vertical), - it turns out much, about 8,5 pure running hours. But I decide to not divide all the same a way into two days, and to leave tomorrow with mornings - should be given all consequences of bad weather, like avalanches and landslips, to pass, and to a track - to be released{exempted} from a snow. On second of August we leave early - at 6.30. While at us record time for gathering and to be going a breakfast - 1,5 hours from rise. I plan to pass for a day Kokbulak and to approach under a route on Talgar is 13 kms and 1400 m of ascent. Obviously it is a lot of for running day, but also time already draws in - tactical mistakes at planning are treated on the route poorly. The track goes on the left coast of the river. For two hours forty minutes (pure) we leave to language of the glacier which is going down from pass Kokbulak. As a glacier unfamiliar, in the bottom part with cracks, we decide to communicate. It appears, it not it is required - in the top part a glacier without cracks, rise flat - no more 15-20 │. But the height - 4000 meters, - affects, to go with full backpacks hardly. For 1 hour of 20 minutes we leave on pass mountain a saddle. From here the remarkable kind on glacier Korzhenevsky, peak Talgar, Bliznjashki opens and others. On the flat stone plateau passing in rather sloping talus a slope (10-15 │), we go down from pass. If at descent{release} to take away to the left on a course, descent{Release} equally flat on all an extent if to go directly downwards, it is necessary to pass 100 meter site talus a slope a steepness 30-35 │. All descent{Release} from pass to glacier Korzhenevsky borrows{occupies} 30 minutes. Still through twenty minutes we leave to small lake, formed by the river which is flowing down with pass Kokbulak. Here good places for spending the night, but it is rather far up to route on peak Talgar. Time - 15 hours, we decide to go further. To get under peak Talgar, it is necessary to cross two branches of glacier Korzhenevsky.Reference point of the necessary circus - falling ice in a place of merge of branches of a glacier, and peak Aktau in depth of a circus. From lake under pass Kokbulak it is visible two inflows of a glacier Korzhenevsky - one between top Bliznjashki and the unknown person to me rocky top to the right of it, the second, with falling ice, - between the unknown person to me top and file Talgar. It is necessary to go on the second inflow, and, going around file Talgar to leave to its southwest wall.
From lake we go down in a hollow formed by merge of branches of a glacier. The glacier forms here rather abrupt walls in height up to 10-15 meters, so that we leave in searches of a place of rise on a body of a glacier to the right on рантклюфту. Later it was found out, that this way is irrational, - it is necessary to cross three stone a shaft and breaks of a glacier. More reasonably in a hollow to pass on the left on a course, to rise on the basic branch of glacier Korzhenevsky and on it to approach under peak Talgar. On our way we have spent 2 hours of 20 minutes of pure time. Have risen on spending the night to the left of falling ice. On a card{map} from here up to the most simple route on peak Talgar about 3 kilometers and 500 meters of ascent.On third of August we rise at 4.30. Outside it is bright - a full moon, rather coldly. Gathering with clothing systems, be going a breakfast borrow{occupy} very much time, we leave only 6.40. The yesterday's weariness and height affects-4100. We go in are connected by a cord. It appears, this branch of glacier Korzhenevsky abounds cracks and breaks. It is necessary to search for snow bridges, to creep, do{make}the alternate insurance. One break is especially unpleasant - the general{common} width about{near} 30-40 meters, so at attempt to organize the alternate insurance ice hook passes through the snow-ice bridge. Quickly we creep away with dangerous places. During movement some times we fail, but it is superficial-maximum knee-deep. Under a route we leave only at 9 o'clock, up to a bergschrund, crossing a slope under кулуаром with a route of an ascention (2Б), yet it is less half an hour to a course. The yesterday's weariness, time is felt later. From ascentions it is necessary to refuse. It is expedient to do{make}, probably, assault camp directly under кулуаром. "(3A)" a way on a glacier to the left of "(2A)" кулуара it seems easy and more nicely - a flat glacier, like without cracks. But on old (4-years prescription) it is visible to a photo, that the bottom part of it glacier completely broken off, now, probably, all these cracks and breaks cover a snow. Descent{release} to camp has borrowed{occupied} 2 hours. This very day we remove camp also we become on spending the night at lake, was goin in more simple way (is (see higher). It saves about 1 hour.
On fourth of August for 6,5 hours of "dirty" time have reached up to Baskol, the fifth for the same 6,5 "dirty" hours have gone down up to lake Issyk.Pure time:
Lake Issyk - merge of the rivers Zharsaj and Issyk - 4 hours of 50 mines Merge - lake Akkol - 5 hours of 30 mines Lake Akkol - pass Kokbulak - 3 hours of 8 minutes Pass Kokbulak - falling ice on glacier Korzhenevsky - 3 hours of 18 mines falling ice - the beginning of a route 2Б on peak Talgar - 3 hoursIn total 20 hours
The approach under peak Talgar from a valley р. Issyk is one of most technically simple and fast. However going uphill we recommend to not forget to reserve time for bad weather, which for area rather it is characteristic. Besides it is not necessary to try to reach for a day from Akkol, and that from the Bass - Kolj, prior to the beginning of a route on peak Talgar. It very much tires group, and calls into question actually into an ascention.
The END
