Сей обширный опус не претендует на художественную красоту и объективность суждений.                Автор.

I devote to my new friends who have transferred together « burdens and deprivations » travel, Leo, Andrew, Compton, Malcolm, and porters with whom we are connected with old friendship Sasha Koldunov, Marat Iksanov and Slava Chempinscij.

Also I devote to my wife who patiently sees off and I meet me from my wanderings, and to the son, which photo always and everywhere a burden with myself.

It is my first literary work, not considering reports on geophysical works and reports on seismology of the Earth. There was a literary work much more difficultly, than I assumed, and it is more difficult, than to drag backpacks. What to avoid what or discrepancies while translating as English not native me language, and to not offend whom or wrong interpretation of separate words and expressions, I leave also the original in Russian.

 On June, 29, 2003 - 1-st day

Have arrived to Marat to 8 o'clock in the morning (it is another Marat - our and your head in this campaign), have found his house at a final stop of the bus, near city Almaty. He has returned just from Kirghizia, tired he went all the night long and only has a little had a sleep on road. Had breakfast, have gathered, have gone on a white jeep (it is our domestic mark of automobile "Field ". Literally "Niva"). When spoke on road about poet Pushkin, have casually recollected in 200 kms from Almaty on pass (literally Pereval) Kordajskom, that have forgotten gas and have returned back. Have taken gas, had dinner, have again gone. Only have driven off a house in one kilometer, the bearing has broken, have returned, have taken other machine (too a jeep of red color, but less powerful), have put a luggage carrier, have taken two spare wheels just in case in fact road difficult, were reloaded, brakes have adjusted and have filled a brake liquid. Tried to talk all road as all drove at dream. At night on road with us of an adventure - on pass Kordajskomu a strong downpour all road with a thunder-storm; the tree tumbled down on road in Kirghizia from hurricane, is sharp in view of headlights has arisen in front of machine, had hardly time to brake; the wheel has bursted - have changed on road, back right; the candle and the cylinder one has jumped out did not work, yet have not checked up all candles; in 2 o'clock in the morning have slipped turn on Karaoy have returned and have gone to hotel; at last have reached and in darkness have gone to bed (simply got on a bed). All is excellent{different}!

The brief description of road Almaty - Karaoy. Extent of 470 kilometers.

Deviation small. Through a hills road to Kirghizia from Almaty on lake Issyk Kul at 5-10 time turns out more shortly. Tried to lay a highway through passes earlier, but construction have deserted for a long time, I do not know, why. Though, speak, that on well passable automobile - cross-country vehicle it is possible to pass this road (only physically, is present in view of). Parts of this road I saw also problems basically in the bridges demolished by the rough rivers.

At night we passed boundary posts, in the beginning our Kazakhstan, then Kirghiz (even on clothes of frontier guards, it it is possible to draw a conclusion, what low standard of life in Kirghizia in comparison with Kazakhstan), obstacles to us did not repair any, all is enough politely and cultural as far as I could see, customs house, then a post of ecology (we pay money for travel), and at last have driven in a zone of rest to Issyk Kul (too such as a post, an extreme measure, and it it was necessary to pay for it), at last and Karaoy behind a line near to lake where the hotel waited for us.

On June, 30, 2003 - 2-nd day of adventures, but 1-st day of a way.

Have reached by the machine to an avalanche. All rest of day (hour 4) went on foot up to the first lake in a wood. 20 kg of a public cargo (equipment and basically products) and own - is $more often about 10 kg, but I managed due to an easy backpack to finish gross weight of a cargo up to 7-8 kg. With Sasha came the first and have started to put tents on a hill before lake. The first have put tent Andrew (then yet did not know whose is tent). We have hardly understood, as tent to put (model the unknown person) then for a long time could not find in the beginning where the tent has an input{entrance} in inside, then as the tent opens. The hailstones, a rain a cold very strong, a tooth on a tooth does not get. Sasha all has turned blue from a cold (I was not better) and in any way we with Sasha could not get racks from tent in jacks on a tent of tent - the shiver such beat us. Have waited a bad weather of a few{a little;little bit} time in tent Andrew, have slightly left marks there (the truth, water - not a dirty), we have then apologized, but I do not know, whether had understood us Andrew. We has then approached Slava. We Slavu to friendship it is not insulting have named "Slava-buffooneries" - went Slava silently and slowly, being a little shaken at walking as the bear and has been covered everything, except for a backpack also carpets for dream, sleeping bags and different trunks at random. "Slava" - his name, and "buffooneries" is before years 100 back vagrant circus groups were such. Slava has age of 47 years and he the grown-up from us porters, to mountains too for a long time goes. Height on the first parking of 2500 meters. It if to take into account, that lake Issyk Kul at height of 1600-1700 meters above sea level, and an avalanche on that place, whence we have moved on foot at height of 2000 meters. 500 meters on a flat valley for midday - are quite good!

On July, 1, 2003 - 3-rd day.

In the morning the sun (in mountains always so it happens - at least at us in Zailijskom Ala Tau, on Tjan-Shang, Caucasus, the Ural mountains, Altai, Carpathian mountains - I always saw there the sun - « the fiery red round person » in the morning). It appears, minutes of 20-30 walkings - and parking at the river good, but yesterday we under a hailstones would not reach any more, and on lake it was not worse, and the rivers ahead still more enough, it is less than lakes much more, especially beautiful.

Further have passed shepherds parking at the left and further away one more parking of shepherds on the right behind the river through the wooden bridge on that and this coast of the river, and on this coast two dark blue obelisks (apparently to shepherds). The border of a wood comes to an end in this area at height of 2900 meters (thanks device Andrew). Further the good track is higher than the river but as I have understood, it is possible to go and on the river, what even it is better, less than running time. Then boulders (stones such healthy), then a talus big and are farther ascent and loss of height - and so upwards - downwards all road. Time three there was a hailstones and a rain, it is cold again (while you go - the cold is not felt by a body). The rain amplifies. During a hailstones and tents put. Parking on a platform on merge several four - (as at me it is written down - many rivers). Our gorge to the right is visible, there were we on this gorge of hours 6 and had a rest together with a dinner of hour 3. Height of 3300 meters (on device Andrew).

On July, 2, 2003 - 4-th day.

Ferry. The river Chon-Aksu. At me, as always is a wet ferry, I do not like to jump on stones, then, when go, boots have time to dry out. A public cargo began more than 21,5 kg. Whence? Were forwarded and have gone abruptly upwards. At me all this « abruptly upwards » is characterized in a word « why the hell I here was dragged ». Weather since morning, as always good solar. To go something it is very hard, good, that anybody does not guess it. When all is gone also travel ended, it is already possible and to tell frankly. First two days of walking whined and shoulders and a back (at me a backpack not so convenient, now with such do not go, but I have got used to it for 20 years and I trust it, that it will not bring me) burned. Now legs{foots} grow dumb with a pressure{voltage} above knees. On the sun hands and a forehead (for a nose I as that do not worry) have burned down. On a long viscous talus where places snow deposits lay, we at last were rested against snow drift, height of meter two - two and a half. Height on device Andrew of 3700 meters. A snow crude and sticky, places on the contrary, as loose ice balls. Sticks have cut through steps on a snow hill (basically it is work Sashi - such work is pleasant to him).

At last, we mount on a pure{clean} white sparkling snow on pass Aksu. Height of pass on device Andrew of 4070 meters. A wind on pass both on the right and at the left (in front and behind). Good tops mountain border pass, not complex{difficult}, but to climb upward already it would be desirable to nobody. Waters here are not present (as well as everywhere on passes) though there is a snow, but the snow should be heated, and on it there will leave a lot of gas. Unproductively and not economically. It is easier to have a bite a little on pass, and then it is a little to go down downwards to the river anyone. That we later also have made. Tours lays also a plate metal triangular in weight kg 10-15 with the parties{sides} of centimeters 50. An inscription I transfer{pass} not literally as it is hard to transfer{translate} without loss of the semantic information « 1970, the organized campaign of tourists devoted of 50 years Kazakh SSR ». Have taken out an old note and have enclosed the, on the form of the travelling certificate. Such, moreover with seales - I never saw. Someone, who after us will ascend on pass, now will see. Everyone has signed in a note that wanted to write. Below from pass on the right party{side} there is a snow-covered stone talus, the glacier and the river Aksu is farther. Have gone down on the right board on a glacier. Height on device Andrew of 3800 meters. Had dinner. Appetite big is not present like at anybody - only tea and sweet. We with Marat it seems for all have eaten all bacon and a cervelat (too fat sausage). In absorption of food to us is not present equal. Even probably and Gargantjua (there is such gluttonous literary hero). On a glacier went down on the raised{increased} speed, especially downwards. On the right - the big stone statue.

Have moved down from a glacier and at once on the right slope to not pass the river. In the beginning a large moraine, then a talus. Have met two big good platforms for parking, but water of affinity is not present, it most soon emergency parking cleared away among boulders if the bad weather will find or in time will not have time to go down in a valley (or closer to begin under pass if go with Almaty). The track among boulders is well marked by the rounds, rather well visited{attended} area though on lake Issyk Kul is are more shortly dear{expensive} (for example, through Lakes Kulsajskie, but here having even more a rest in valleys and on lakes, but also it is more than nomads and houses (literally Iurta) from a wooden skeleton, the round form with the conic roof, covered with thick woolen carpets (literally Voilok), easily understanding both going{were going;gathering} and transported on horses or camels (a camel with one and two humps it is a lot of in steppe and deserted areas of Kazakhstan, much to the north from mountains - Kazakhstan borrows{occupies} rather big territory and in the north borders on Russia) local nomadic population.

From this parking it is possible to reach pass Aksu till a dinner, but I think, that it not the best variant, and that, only with horses. I how many (three years) resembled with horses, have understood, at last, that without horses nevertheless better much more. On foot with backpacks is more more transportable and is more flexible, but there is a limit in distance as the more the distance, the is more than products and it is heavier backpacks. In all there are borders.

1)    Horses will not pass a complex{difficult} route (they go only easy routes - simple and for the spoilt and coddled clients)

2)    Parking only with a green grass (necessarily - horses need to eat, and it excludes passes with long stone approaches and complex{difficult} technically where the horse will not pass) are necessary for them.

3)    It is much better to employ horses on a course of a route, it is cheaper, people there poor, agree to small payment though nomads remained not everywhere and not so much and only on visited{attended} routes. We went on Tjan-Shang since July, 12 with German travellers (to a word: with you was more cheerful much more) so on a valley of the river Chilik for two day have not met any alive person of the shepherd, and it was cattle breeding paradise earlier. The second: romanticism of travel is lost.

With horses it is a lot of trouble and it is a lot of losses, I went this route on pass Aksaj more often in September, October, when there is no a snow so there below, when there is no a snow horse skeletons - a heap are visible so much.

On parking came at 16 o'clock 30 minutes evenings. Height 3250 (besides on device Andrew). Parking rather convenient, on border of stones and the Alpine hills, with the big river in the distance and small small rivers near to camp. I think, enough remembered place for those who there was for the first time. In the evening during supper Malcolm treated all with cognac. Drinking there was two everything, I yes Volodja (Vladimir on another). On me the indelible impression was left with aroma and flavouring qualities of cognac. Thanks, Malcolm! Earlier I of saws only the Kazakhstan cognac. For a long time, the truth, me was possible to try French wines and the French hard liquor. Quite good during the Soviet time there was both Crimean ours a fault and the Soviet champagne. I can tell, that beer in my opinion very good in Russian cities Voronezh and Astrahanj. Apparently because of water - in brewing business the structure of water plays the big role, the basic. I think, my literary deviations from the basic theme do not prevent a narration, and you learn{find out} more about our private world where we live. Also, as the world in which you live is interesting to me.

In general, constantly I notice, how my narration imperceptibly flows in a philosophical channel of reflections.

Did not sleep at the night of hour two. In general it every night. I wake up and cannot fall asleep for a long time. Saw, how Andrew left tent with a lantern with dark blue light at night. The lantern shines{covers} all around rather far and strongly. I before such lanterns did not see, an extreme measure in campaigns. Has dozed off, only when the sky began to become blue - closer by a dawn.

On July, 3, 2003 - 5-th day.

Have left late - somewhere about 10 o'clock in the morning though I think, that for pleasure if to go to rise it is necessary, as you will wake up, and to stop on parking, here already as it will turn out. In this situation, as I have understood, the greatest distance and a campaign is passed attracts. Exception passes (in general, all passes, any complexity, to any pass it is necessary to approach{suit} is collected and yours faithfully, it is not necessary to underestimate mountains) and make only any rivers. There already system of movement another, whatever one may do. Better to pass or a glacier to approach{suit} on spending the night as it is possible closer and to pass it as soon as possible in the morning. The same concerns to the large, abounding in water and rough rivers.

In general, have passed on large stone boulders, then the track goes down and goes along the river. Rather beautifully and field flowers much. We leave in the big valley on a green glade on a hill on merge of the rivers by 13 o'clock p.m. A dinner. Again the lunch food in my backpack also is necessary to get a dinner. For this purpose I shake out all backpack. After a dinner we turn to the right (upwards on the big valley). On a track we leave on a stone dam and about a miracle - the mountain lake blocked from different directions with mountains. Small the truth, but pure{clean} and cold. If I did not know, that here lake - never would guess itself. Lake Zhasyl-Kolj (in the Kazakh language it is translated as "grass - lake" or " green lake "). Basically, I agree with it. At once, after rather green grassy valley, there is a high stone embankment and behind a natural embankment - dam the lake where the grass and a wild green onions{bow} what here is a lot of also grows opens. Cooks - women from this onions{bow} even something prepared for other days of a campaign.

Height on lake on device Andrew of 3220 meters. Has saddened the approach to lake only that all have gone to top and have gone down to lake, as normal people. I with guide Volodei and the daughter of cook - woman Yana have spread on a talus. With a heavy backpack this rather amusing employment{occupation} to observe which from the party{side} apparently it is not less amusing. However, I had to move down simply on a talus on the fifth point of a support, the blessing from strewed boulders my head was protected with the backpack which has moved down from a back. Speed of falling tried to extinguish the thick aluminium stick, and in a result, from my losses - only casually scratched elbow of the right hand and a dirty white shirt with the logo of the organization where I work. Near to lake on an embankment snowdrifts. For a dinner had a meal on a plate of soup. On half grain cutlets. Then I have had time to sleep, after acceptance of tincture of a black currant last year's on spirit which itself houses and has prepared (saws for a hard liquor alcoholic, only I and a few{a little;little bit} guide Vladimir and porter Slava hardly has helped basically). Malcolm as to the expert on cognacs distances to try, the others have refused - do not drink alcoholic drinks. Like Malcolm it was not pleasant - my tincture of 70 degrees with cognac certainly you will not compare. And the word of honour, cognac is pleasant to me much more, and cognac Malcolm - in general a thing excellent{different} and refined. As I have understood, at this time many had time to take a walk in vicinities of lake. Have cleaned{removed} a few{a little;little bit} dust that did not spoil a picture of the nature. I guess, whose travel company is dust has remained....

In the evening was PLOV (is possible to tell, the Asian, national dish, very tasty but if it is short PLOV it is rice with meat) and again tincture (what for to carry with itself superfluous half of kg). PLOV I have not gorged on and laid then I remember, grumbled on cooks and chewed this green wild-growing onions{bow}. And that - vitamins. It was expiated in ice water and has washed up shampoo a head (certainly, has departed far away camp in a small gulf of lake). Simply, as I have understood from the campaigns, that time in three days it is necessary to bathe, differently in five days from you will smell as from a horse - turned sour then.

On July, 4, 2003 - 6-th day.

In the morning a muzzle swollen. But it not from a hang-over, I do not suffer after even good binge (and what there to drink was?). As I have noticed, at me as wrists of hands so have a little swelled up a little and when on pass Aksu on a white sparkling snow cheeks have scorched, ears and a nose all has swelled up the person have burned down the first, and ears hung up to shoulders burdocks. From lake have passed again back on a stone dam, but on the right board of the big valley. Ferries this day was multitudes.

Ferry strong (powerful current and waters are higher than a knee) Southwest Talgar. My heavy the stick was useful for a campaign (it is more than kg in weight) in second time. Have transferred{translated} through the river Southwest Talgar Malcolma - two porters (guide Volodja and Marat) on edges{territories} and in the middle Malcolm. My stick was useful in second time (not including that yesterday I extinguished this stick acceleration of free falling from a talus). First time is was before pass Aksy, Sasha punches a snow hill and speaks, that without this stick would not punch a dense snow simple thin ski sticks. I already from a history of the travel, have understood, that one strong stick is necessary even, only who will bear{carry} such weight …. Without a horse. As you can see, my idea - I also carry a stick.

Then two small small rivers, one of them are more powerful, than river Kashka-Su. Have met two Englishmen towards. The ferry the river "Lake" (literally Ozernaja), hardly is easier Southwest Talgar. Then hour three walkings on a green grass, without water (is more exact without the rivers and small rivers, but there were bogs with potable water, here any water can be drunk, water pure{clean} and natural is not a city water canal). The track from machines in a grass at last has appeared. A wide ferry through the river with the unknown person to me the name. The metal bridge (destroyed - there is no one flight - has demolished the rough river) through river Cholki-Min and outstanding from apart, big a flank, silvery on the sun on the contrary is seen. Today Andrew has approached to me with the device (Thanks, Andrew!), but I have already written down height of yesterday's parking from words Sashi which has heard yesterday about height from words itself Andrew. As people speak - gorges are full of hearings.

Again a ferry. Here the river is widely spilled and forwarded on stones. « Dry » a ferry as speak in that case. On that party{side} of a valley hardly back, wide delta of the river from gorge. Hardly is farther on the left board of a valley rather beautiful top is visible. Guide Volodja speaks, that it is top Polj Robson. I know Polj Robson, and the name correct whether or not is on conscience of the guide - I on a card{map} did not check. On road I have broken dry fire wood for a dinner. For a long time them bore{carried}, but on parking on the river for a dinner there was a heap of such fire wood. Basically, I of them would inform and before evening parking (though a fire would make), but cooks have again overlooked to make tea for a dinner, tea leaves was at me at the bottom of a backpack. It was necessary to be unpacked, get tea and to fasten fire wood from above a backpack to me already there was a reluctance and I have left them on an old place from someone's old fire - for the following travellers. In general, always in campaigns of the cook prepare for products for a dinner even in the morning in a separate package and on parking do not force each porter because of any product completely to unpack the backpacks. It certainly angered very strongly, I speak an extreme measure about myself. How many I did not explain our cooks this correct system - all vainly.

Again small deviation from a theme of my narration. Still I want to tell a little. About catering services I have already told. Now about the food. A feed{meal} at us was little bit weak and not correctly balanced. If we went earlier, or even present{true} our campaign recently on Northern Tien Shan (or Tjan-Shang - do not know how it is correct) has shown much more the best catering services. Dissatisfactions a feed{meal} the following. The organism loses many salts (even an organism of the porter under a heavy backpack). We had ham and bacon salty, salty nutlets and salty dry bread and even on one dried vobla for the evening in the evening. Then, on pass never accept fat I peep (it only I and Marat we can absorb everything, always and in any quantities{amounts} - at us stomaches so are arranged from and for campaigns). On passes are necessary necessarily more than hot tea and a sour liquid (with it is expected constantly problems were), sweet, it is necessary more chocolate and dried fruits with various nutlets. But a liquid necessarily once again and also in plenties.

And these dairy porridges every morning will reduce from mind{wit} of any porter. My remarks to cooks have not resulted in any result. I speak it about quality and the name of food. About quantity{amount} of products I cannot be objective as I like to have a meal more, therefore I speak nothing about it.

On the river for a dinner had a meal soup (at last!) red color (these details I allow, that you would recollect the moments better and have recalled details of this day. I always for myself so do{make} also it well the river beside helps me in my memoirs) similar to compote, bacon, a колбаски-cervelat and tea, the blessing. Sasha eat for a dinner bacon. After pass at Sasha appetite at last has appeared. He goes well with a heavy backpack, but eats it is not enough, as against us, other porters. And I sleep something poorly and a little. Spending the night on wide river Almaty. With opposite (seldom such it happens - two gorges directly against each other, run into the third big gorge!) Gorges the small narrow river flows. Height on parking of 2850 meters. The hunter on a horse (the hunter has told, that his horse, rather beautiful horse costs{stands} 23000 Kirghiz money (the Kirghiz money refer to literally 23000 somov), and it approximately if I am not mistaken, $800 US) has approached{has dropped in}. The hunter - Kirghiz hunts on rounds - wild rams (Tautake). Here in this gorge it appears have organized national Kirghiz reserve, therefore years five here are not present shepherds.

Have invited the hunter to a table for our supper. Only had time to have supper, has struck a powerful downpour, all around became black. The hunter so also has left for a downpour, speaks, that to him is indifferent also he has got used to a bad weather. We have climbed in tent on a lodging for the night and simultaneously from a rain have hidden (at us on four porters one tent was - less to bear{carry} in backpacks) and appeared, that the tent costs{stands} on seven big sharp stones. Slava has crept under tent to get stones. The rain has ended gradually through one hour or two and Slava began to do{make} massage to cooks - women --- cooks - women are very pleased. But only three porters lay in tent with sick backs and envy cooks.

On July, 5, 2003 - 7-th day.

All the night long there was a rain. Marych (short other name Marat) laid with edge{territory} in tent and all has got wet together with the sleeping bag. Lightnings and a thunder. The hailstones (yes, at such small height and the hailstones is surprisingly) then was. Has ascended the bright sun, a tumour from the person all in the morning has left, the forehead is scratched also a skin from a forehead, cheeks and a nose is removed by a tatter. Means - heals. Yesterday have considered tent Andrew. In the evening today Andrew promised to show the small lamp. To us interestingly all new and unknown to us. Malcolm has given the card from the old place of work. Me the mark of cognac interested. Such I earlier not saws - have liked me cognac. There are Malcolm 10 years on rest (our way « on pension »).

Four riding have passed in the morning from that gorge where there will be also we. Armed all four and two even with carbines of a cavalry (short). ((the Yesterday's hunter (I do not remember his name - has not written down to myself in a notebook) was only with a gun of 12 calibres, with a simple hempen cord instead of a thong and valuable still the field-glass idle time 7х50 7-ми multiple increase. Guide Volodja has given him a pack of cigarettes "Marlboro" (with which you have treated us on lake Issyk Kul in the first day of acquaintance), with cigarettes at them in mountains always poorly, and already easy reacted to how him photographed much, all available cameras, it is especial Leo, at him in general are not clear how many cameras. As later I was convinced, at him good art pictures turn out. It is necessary to be either the journalist or the photographer - professional. It is my compliment to him, without bias)). Riding were forwarded through the river (they on horses - to them absolutely simply) and have left again in that gorge where there are we. While we were stacked, the sun starts to bakee unmercifully. All person has smeared with sunflower oil. As they say: « Let's go! ». All road on a grass up to the lake is filled with water, as a bog. One hour went up to a clip, then on a slope and the first parking on rest have made at the river on stones. Height of 3070 meters - only I do not remember, but it seems on border of a wood.

Constantly we are caught up with a rain. A ferry through the river (I do not remember the name of the river and even has visually overlooked as it occured). Went on gorge on the right board. The interval between us then on a track was big and we with Sashei came the first on lake under pass and that anybody during a bad weather has not gone astray true, on the big stones have put my stick and have hung up on top of this stick a red plastic package, one that I use for stacking soft warm things that they have not got wet under a rain in a backpack. Cooks - women went the last and they even have brought with themselves our self-made flag - good fellows, I had not to come back behind the stick. Height on lake of 3630 meters. Andrew itself has defined{determined} height, has got used, that I " how many meters " write down (once again Andrew thanks). Never simply earlier I went with such device, as at Andrew. Always defined{determined} height on a card{map}, or on border of a wood, or the Alpine meadows, and is $more often visually, concerning the gone way. Therefore to me was interestingly constant to know heights on the certain places. As can you remember, the strong wind there was, all ground around of lake is impregnated with water, hardly snow deposits further laid. Here I in meters 20-ти from water in clay stony ground also have noticed a flower the Alpine Rose. Beautiful, with a thin smell not transmitted by the words, the proud flower resisting to a bad weather and rather severe climatic conditions at this height 3630. Around rather beautifully - the big circus as a bowl and lake - behind it pass, let not complex{difficult} on technics{technical equipment} of an ascention, but at the big height and fine.

Has sharply become cold, dark clouds and a thunder are lower in a valley, the rain gradually started to drip. Slava somewhere has found the broken compass. Have defined{determined} a direction of a wind - southern, but an ice wind. The rain amplifies. Have hardly blocked from impulses of a wind a kerosene stove stones and a carpet for dream. Tea drank already under a hailstones and rather large. You should remember it is precisely! Such it is not forgotten. A cold dog. Separate balls of a hailstones be hurt beat on the ears which have swollen from the sun. Well I remember, how by a full hot saucepan with it is expected heated a stomach and hands, and we expect interiors, costing{standing} a back to a wind and the person to lake. Last tea I drink from the saucepan with the convenient plastic handle. Has dug out a flower here at lake and now it{he} borrows{occupies} the big volume of my saucepan. On the right party{side} of lake 30 minutes of walking up to pass have left on pass. Tours as a pyramid of meter in 4 height on pass costs{stands}. Wide pass as at us speak: « Horses will pass ». We with Sashey have passed hardly forward and have lain on a back from a wind behind stones. The wind of us has already tortured. Behind pass in a valley three columns metal are visible, to measure a level of a snow in the winter. Pass of Checkpoint (literally Prohodnoj) - the name of it, height of 3700 meters. Besides a wind strong and cold, but the sun bright already. Not passing the river, have gone down downwards on a snow, then on stones. The gorge hardly turns to the right, streamlets flow on the track, the ground and a grass champ from water under legs{foots}. In the big circus on a green grass at the river have met group of tourists. Below on a green grass where it is a lot of streamlets and floods of water directly on a track have met camp from firm of Khan Tengri. One owner of horses, one guide - conductor, one translator, the cook and three horses.

/tents familiar, we with them went the same earlier in same firm. Tents very inconvenient, for a long time gather, many pegs, a fabric from humidity sag. Separate big tent a dining room (now have even guessed an awning for a dining room to make, differently proceeded from a rain though and not at once), I think with tables and chairs. If there are horses it is possible and with such comfort. The toilet cabin in the distance is seen. Earlier, I remember, we also for washing put a cabin. Such bulky camp not everywhere you will pass, and romanticism already any. This my pure{clean} opinion. Someone likes to travel and with such comfort. The god him the judge. Simply, if the case the opinion was gave out to tell, I shall tell: waters around are higher than a belt{zone} though also cold (the below in a valley - the more warmly), and in a toilet (I apologize for details) I, for example, go time to three days, it is not necessary to build because of it city, and animals all in the street go are the nature does not litter and does not spoil. The only thing, that unpleasantly also irritates me, it is dust it happens, some groups leave, do not clean{remove} after the visiting parking on the nature / .

See off group of English-speaking travellers. You, by the way, have rather for a long time communicated to them, I think, it was for you rest as I present, that such new people with the native language and not that we with the clumsy English. We with Sashej while have gone forward, to search for parking good. Have stopped on merge of two rivers Checkpoint and Alma-Arasan. Height of 3300 meters on device Andrew. A kind amazing. Two gorges below: Alma-Arasan, conducting{leading} in city (to go, certainly it is still decent{considerable}, the city it is not visible) and to the right gorge on space station. Two gorges the mountain divides{shares} the Big Almaty peak in height of 3900 meters directly before us. The flower which I carry, appeared rather proof. Has watered the Alpine Rose and has left under a stone at the river, native a flower elements. As to the Alpine Rose will be in city - I do not know. Have found mushrooms directly in the middle of a glade where have put tents. For a supper - mushroom soup with vermicelli. On the second a mashed potatoes (at last, as at the best restaurants: The first dish, the second dish and compote - nevertheless my voice has reached cooks - women). Tea with cookies and honey. We ate this honey till last day our travel. Before a supper I have had time even to have a sleep directly on the sun, the truth the evening weak sun. But all the same radiation the person now has sufficed also hurt and it is rather sensitive.

From below two tourists - the man and the woman have risen. We with interest observed, how they for a long time tried to find a ferry and were forwarded through the river, and then had for a long time a rest in 100 meters upwards from our camp. Slava has got gramme on 50 vodkas (literally - Vodochki) - we frequently, and many take with themselves an emergency ration on a case of overcooling of an organism but if it is not used during a campaign - it is possible to admit, that almost is never used - that back in city spirit or vodka are not born{carried}, and last day is drunk. It for those who drinks. And that there 50 gramme on one person, yes on fresh air, yes on the nature, yes after a heavy backpack. One continuous pleasure. One relaxation. Especially, when you eat after vodka garlic (literally Zakusyvaeshj). Slava it is praised by a knife, to him Andrew has presented. Slava knifes collects.

Cups at me now are not present - I carry in the saucepan a flower. The spoon at last on kitchen has found in a lump of all spoons - the spoon at me is signed - the easy aluminium spoon (each gramme at the porter on the account - the joke certainly, but in each joke there is a part of the truth). Cooks - girls from the beginning of a campaign were accustomed to use mine the spoon and a cup with the plastic handle for the purposes of preparation of food. Whether a cup such see a convenient piece. I too such opinion on the cup, differently what for I drag it with myself in spite of the fact that my saucepan with the plastic handle rather enough heavy thing, and from each superfluous gramme in a campaign would be desirable to get rid. Tomorrow on pass of "Fools" (literally Durakov), the truth, at pass is other name: pass Almaty-Alager. The first name was attached to this pass because if to go from Almaty further on gorge, get on pass of "Checkpoint" and further to Kirghizia, we whence came. And if you turn little bit earlier through pass of "Fools" from Almaty you come besides in Almaty, only through other gorge, and in city these gorges rather close from each other incorporate on a belt line.

Before dream has sat at the river, for a long time looked at water. Andrew too that that writes, I earlier simply did not notice. Well and it is good, if I somewhere shall be mistaken in the descriptions - Andrew will correct me. If Andrew conducts a diary, certainly. Has casually recollected, how in the first day of transition on turn at the bridge has met children. They asked in very bad Russian: « Give the handle, give a match », and already soaped a piece washed in hands (ahead of me has passed outside of visibility range Sasha, his it is a gift so I think) and even, probably did not know, that with soap do{make}. The handle at me was one, and matches a superfluous box - were. In the distance at a log hut sat any the man - their father probably. In the evening from a valley the fog has crept slowly. At night for a long time there was a downpour with a thunder-storm. When the thunder-storm has passed, all valley Alma-Arasan up to horizon shined from fires of city in the distance. One word on Charley Chaplin: « Fires of the big city ». It was possible to go down this valley in city, but for us waited in the next valley, at the Big Almaty lake, and we tomorrow went there through pass.

On July, 6, 2003 - 8-th day.

In the morning have woken up - all is filled up with a snow, freezes. All the night long there was a rain, a hailstones, a thunder-storm and sometimes in tent it was dark, as in a black box. For a breakfast porridge, as always was, and rolls with the condensed milk (little girls fried them on gas). We wait, while tents will dry out. Easy my sports shoes - have stood full waters in the street near tent - unpleasantly to put on them. Anybody did not expect a snow. Weather in mountains is changeable. Boots yellow yesterday has given Sashe, his shoes have absolutely torn and at breakfast yesterday he was changed in my yellow boots. Well at me still sports shoes were. It happened, that I and in sports shoes went to campaigns - anything, it is possible and in easy sports shoes, if not very complex{difficult} passes. Have at breakfast communicated « Russian - English ». A situation something similar to the Russian film of " Feature of national hunting ». To tell the truth, there there were languages at dialogue " Finnish - Russian ". Look, if such film is in English in translation. Film ridiculous - will not regret.

Tents have dried out also all have gone slowly. We with Sashej as frequently it happens, we go the latest. Malcolm shouts from a hill behind the river that has forgotten socks on a place where there was a tent. His socks were found - have taken them to him with itself. Everywhere on slopes fresh, dropped out for last night, sleet. Through the river has forded - всё-equally to go on pass on a snow. Hour we go on the left board of gorge. Has talked with Malcolm on a way. Does not want Malcolm to give the backpack to me. Wants to bear{carry} itself. On the right beautiful gorge snow-covered, with a surface as a washing board. Seldom such relief you will see. The ridge too nice and from apart as if is simple for transition on a crest on pass of "Checkpoint" (literally Prohodnoj). It can only it seems, but a kind therefrom probably beautiful. Before pass of me have photographed with a flower and a naked stomach (and a red muzzle). Height on pass of 3730 meters. Malcolm joking has risen on pass and has fallen to a snow as though Malcolm creeps on pass. Malcolm as frequently there is, last, but obstinate both happy. And the backpack does not give me. Though it is not difficult for me, we already got used to weights (though, speak, it is impossible to get used to this, my backpack by the end of a campaign of anything does not weigh any more. Ahead behind pass Peak of Advice{Councils} (literally Sovetov). Have met three guys. Go a campaign of the day off. Almaty - the Big Almaty lake - pass of Fools (Almaty-Alager) - gorge Alma-Arasan - Almaty. Two days it is enough. Slowly. On a card{map} at them height of pass of 3600 meters. A card{map} old, not exact. Metal columns for gauging a level of a snow on pass again cost{stand}.

We went down from pass on the left board of gorge though guys who came from below, went on easier - to the right board. The left board abrupt and is more complex{difficult}, but is shorter. After pass Vovka has remained to wait for everything, and we with Marat, Slava and Sasha have gone forward. Sasha in general from a kind has disappeared. As then appeared, Sasha it was forwarded through the river below, rather rough, running into the big Almaty Lake somewhere from above on stones. And we from below went one of sleeves of this river, the most rough, on the rests of the metal bridge, speak, it is enough already ancient bridge. We wait for all others. That is hot, is cool.

The first through the bridge has passed Leo. Time of 13 hours of 44 minutes p.m. Hardly later, with a various time interval small, all have gathered. Had dinner. All rests of products and both kerosene stoves appeared at me, not considering easy jacket Marata. I do not know, the backpack now in kgs how many weighs, but I yet did not carry such easy backpack seems never. Height on the bridge of 2900 meters. Further on road, already among fur-trees, there is a hydropost at height of 2650 meters. The lake with a water level at height of 2500 meters further begins. Marat speaks, that literally "serpokluv-endemik", the bird such rare here is found. Further the road already rolled by machines (the truth, here it is necessary the miss{passing}) and goes upwards along lake on a slope and leaves directly on a dam which was partitioned off lake. Here already the settlement and snow avalanche station where lives and works Vladimir with family. There already our roads have gone away. You, foreign tourists on a jeep downwards in hotel, and we by the passing bus (by the way, that on this the bus we reached settlement Turgen in the campaign on Northern Tien Shan), too downwards, but there already in the different parties{sides} on houses. While sat below on a ring of roads and waited a jeep, Slava has bought two beers in glass bottles (literally Butylochka Pivka), after a campaign - beer cold, certainly a thing fine..

Epilogue.

We with you also can look photos and recollect the separate moments of our adventures on travel. Recollect, if is what to recollect - and can finish and specify my story, even for itself, I not against it. It is possible to make hyperlinks in a photo directly in the program " Microsoft Word " on a course of a narration - so will be remembered and remain on a paper of even more moments, interesting and, maybe, amusing or ridiculous or simply remembered.

The our route good and beautiful was. The different moments of travel already begin to be forgotten, therefore has hastened to put in order records in the diary that has recollected on memory has added. If something has invented somewhere - correct me. To me it seems to all of you on forces much more complex{difficult} routes. You all your command{team} rather amicably and vigorously went if to take into account that it already first your day at us in Asia was not. Even Malcolm on forces will pass even a complex{difficult} route and if it will be hard with our small help it is possible. Malcolm the obstinate person, and in a campaign it is of great importance.

On ascentions on the big tops there is very much a wide experience both on technics{technical equipment} and by quantity{amount} of ascentions at Sashi, though Sasha and the youngest among us porters. The others we is simple through passes of different complexity went. Simply a lot of time we go, mountains we love, therefore not only because of money we travel. To you porters for whom a campaign in mountains, it at all is so much earnings, how many a part of a life or simply rest have met. It happens, that casual people get also. I present, that porters (literally Sherpy) in Nepal on it live, it is them at all the part, is a life but as they conduct themselves in mountains - I do not know.

I think, that have offended nobody any direct statements.

I have not found while a good topographical card{map} 1:50 000 scales on our route, therefore about the gone kilometers on days I do not have more - less exact data. The good card{map} will fall me into hands, I shall scan the paper image and I shall put our route and I shall send you.

The flower I has successfully informed up to a house. This flower has for a long time stood at a window, the stalk has grown up and leaflets have grown up below. And today on July, 26 - at a flower the stalk has bent - started to fade gradually, the ends of petals start to darken. Well, probably it is time.

Best regards,

Andrey V.Korolev

On June, 30 - on July, 26, 2003

Republic Kazakhstan, the city of Almaty.